Nirona: Where Bells Ring, and Colours Come Alive
Continuing our road trip from Hudko to Moti Virani, we took a slight detour to Nirona, a centre of traditional art and craftsmanship. Nirona, a quaint village in the Kutch district of Gujarat, is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and its preservation of indigenous crafts.
On our first visit, at a family-run studio, we met Mr Rizwan Khatri, who represents the eighth generation of his family practising this rare art form. When one thinks of painting, a brush is typically regarded as an essential artistic tool. However, Rogan painting is distinctive in that a tulika (stylus) is used instead of a brush to apply paint onto cloth. The paint is prepared from castor oil that has been boiled and mixed with natural vegetable dyes. Rogan painting is a traditional form of cloth decoration practised in parts of India and Afghanistan. During our visit, Rizwan bhai gave us a live demonstration, creating a small but intricate piece that exemplified the precision and patience required for this craft.
 |
| Rogan Painting |
 |
| Rizwan bhai, demonstrating the art |
Although commonly referred to as copper bells, the bells are primarily made of iron and coated with copper and other metals. They are crafted from scrap iron sheets, which are repeatedly hammered into shape. The metal components are joined through an interlocking system without welding, demonstrating remarkable technical skill. The shape and size of the bell, along with the wooden clapper made from the locally sourced Khirad tree, determine the tonal quality and resonant sound it produces.
These hand-crafted bells are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and may be displayed individually or grouped for musical purposes. There are thirteen standard sizes, each customised for different animals. A goat typically wears a smaller bell that produces a high-pitched tone, whereas a cow wears a larger bell with a deeper resonance. Even within the same size category, bells can be tuned to different notes to distinguish cattle belonging to different owners. In each size, up to five or six distinct tonal variations can be produced.
During our visit, Ali Bhai gave us a live demonstration and crafted a small bell for us as a souvenir. We were astonished to watch how a simple sheet of metal was patiently hammered and skillfully interlocked into a bell with such clarity of sound.
 |
| Copper bell |
 |
| Ali Bhai with his set of tools |
Guided by the lingering sound of ringing bells, we went on to visit the Koli community on the other side of the Nirona Village, who practise the traditional craft of lacquer work on wood—a technique originally introduced from Sindh (now in Pakistan). The artisans have carefully preserved and further developed this art, thereby bringing it wider recognition beyond the village. In this intricate process, colourful lac, a natural resin secreted by insects, is applied to wooden objects on a manually operated lathe, forming delicate zig-zag and geometric patterns. The finished pieces—ranging from kitchenware to toys—are finally polished with oil, giving them a rich, glossy sheen.
The artisan gave us a quick demo of applying the colours to the wooden piece.
 |
| Lacquer work on the wood |
 |
| Artisan with a hand lathe |
By the time we left Nirona, it no longer felt like just another stop on our itinerary. It felt like a conversation—with artisans, with history, and with the enduring spirit of craftsmanship. As we resumed our journey towards CEDO Homestay in Moti Virani, the sounds of ringing bells, the shimmer of Rogan motifs, and the whirl of the wooden lathe lingered in our thoughts, reminding us that some villages are not merely visited—they are experienced.
Comments
Post a Comment