In the last leg of our Kutch Road trip, we drove from the western tip of India, Koteshwar, to Bhuj. I was genuinely astonished after visiting the city to see how Bhuj, though small in size, has thrived since prehistoric times. Before diving into my experiences of the places we visited, it feels essential to share a brief historical background of this remarkable city.
History of Bhuj
Bhuj is the district headquarters of Kutch, the largest district in India. Kutch spans 45,674 sq km, with Bhuj at its centre. The city derives its name from Bhujiyo Dungar, a 160-metre-high hill that overlooks the entire town. According to local legend, the hill was once the residence of Bhujang, the great serpent. A temple dedicated to the serpent still stands atop the hill.
Harappan artefacts discovered in Khadir confirm that Kutch was part of the Harappan civilisation, linking it to the earliest civilisations of the Indian subcontinent. These remnants of prehistoric times allow one to feel the deep-rooted cultural heritage of India. I will explore this aspect of my journey in greater detail in a separate blog.
Bhuj was founded in 1510 by Rao Hamirji and later became the state capital in 1549 under Rao Khengarji I. It served as the capital of the Jadeja dynasty for centuries. In the later years of the 16th century, Bhuj came under Mughal rule. While administrative control rested with the Mughals, local governance was entrusted to Rajput kings. The rulers of Bhuj were even permitted to mint their own currency, known as the kori.
In 1741, Bhuj saw the rise of a new ruler, Lakhpatji I, under whose reign the Kutch region reached a remarkable height of cultural development. In 1815, Bhujiyo Dungar Hill was captured by British forces. Although the king retained local autonomy, the British assumed supervisory administrative control.
Pragmalji II ascended the throne in the 19th century, during whose reign the Prag Mahal Palace was constructed. Several palaces and civic buildings were also built during this period. Bhuj continued to serve as the capital of the princely state of Cutch under British rule.
After India’s independence in 1947, Kutch became part of India, while its neighbouring region, Sindh, went to Pakistan. Bhuj retained its status as the district headquarters. Over time, the city endured six enemy raids and two devastating earthquakes in 1956 and 2001. Yet, each time, Bhuj rose again, reclaiming its former glory. Even today, one can sense the elegance of the Jadeja dynasty in its palaces and monuments. Bhuj now stands as a bustling center for textiles, arts, and handicrafts—celebrated for its resilience and rich cultural heritage.
City Tour Begins
Having explored Bhuj’s history, we began our city tour.
We had reached Bhuj at 14:45. After a quick check-in and a brief rest, we stepped out to visit Aaina Mahal and Prag Mahal, located side by side within the same royal complex. To avoid traffic chaos and parking hassles, we opted for an auto-rickshaw—an easy decision that saved both time and energy.
Aaina Mahal
We started with Aaina Mahal. Initially unsure, I skipped buying the camera ticket, but just a few steps inside were enough to change my mind. I quickly stepped back out to purchase one—some places truly deserve to be remembered visually.
Built in 1761 by Rao Lakhpatji of the Jadeja Rajputs, Aaina Mahal—aptly known as the Hall of Mirrors—is a shimmering reminder of Bhuj’s regal past. Designed by Ram Singh Malam with assistance from the skilled Mistris of Kutch, the palace reflects a striking Indo-European hybrid style. White marble walls inlaid with mirrors and gilded ornaments catch the light from ornate Venetian glass chandeliers. A raised platform surrounded by fountains—powered by an intricate pump system beneath a Venetian chandelier—adds theatrical elegance to the space.
One of the most evocative features is the pleasure pool, at the center of which stands a square platform where the Maharao is believed to have composed poetry and patronised classical dancers, musicians, and bards. Although the palace suffered damage during the 2001 Gujarat earthquake, parts of it have been restored and converted into a museum. The exhibits—bedrooms, music rooms, paintings, arms, palanquins, clocks, mechanical toys, and other artefacts—offer a vivid glimpse into the artistic and cultural life of the region’s royalty.
Timings: 9:00 AM - 12:00 PM, 3:00 PM - 6:00 PM; Thursdays closed
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| Aaina Mahal: Carriage |
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| Aaina Mahal: Palkhi |
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| Aaina Mahal: Palkhi front covers |
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| Aaina Mahal: Arms display |
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| Aaina Mahal: Pleasure pool |
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| Aaina Mahal: Bed with golden legs and a room adorned with mirrors |
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| Aaina Mahal: Clock showing the Lunar calendar |
Prag Mahal
After completing our visit to Aaina Mahal, we walked across to Prag Mahal. Built in the 19th century by Rao Pragmalji II, Prag Mahal stands in stark contrast—grand, restrained, and distinctly European in influence. Designed by Colonel Henry Saint Wilkins, construction began in 1865 and was completed in 1879 during the reign of Rao Khengarji III. Built using Indian sandstone and Italian marble, its Italian Gothic arches, carved balconies, and Corinthian elements reflect an era when Bhuj confidently engaged with global architectural styles.
Entering Prag Mahal felt almost ceremonial, with wide stone steps leading into the palace. Inside, the Darbar Hall forms its heart. Once alive with royal assemblies and ceremonies, it now stands quiet and contemplative. Chandeliers still hang from the high ceiling, muted in brilliance, yet commanding attention.
Other exhibition halls display royal possessions, including hunting trophies, thrones, guns, and furniture. However, signs of neglect are visible. Ongoing restoration work suggests an effort to reclaim the palace’s former dignity, though the contrast between preserved and deteriorating spaces is difficult to ignore.
Following the designated route, we emerged onto an open terrace beside the clock tower. Unfortunately, access to the tower was closed that day. We were told that when open, it offers panoramic views of Bhuj and Hamirsar Lake, a vantage point that would have surely elevated the experience.
From the terrace, we could see the ruins of Rani ka Vas (the Queen’s Residence) beside Prag Mahal. Built in traditional Indian architectural style, the structure, largely destroyed by the 2001 earthquake, still hints at its former elegance. Ornately designed porticos and balcony windows cling to the remains. Unlike other parts of the complex, we noticed no visible restoration work here.
Within the palace compound, a small handicrafts market showcases local Gujarati crafts, especially textiles from Kutch. The complex has also featured in popular films, including Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam and Lagaan.
As we wandered outside the palace buildings, it was the details that lingered—beautifully carved doorways, delicate jali work, elaborate window boxes, Corinthian pillars, and balconies that quietly showcased the craftsmanship of another era.
As with the day’s travel, we decided to give our vehicle a rest. Over a conversation with the auto driver, we finalised plans for the next day’s sightseeing.
Timings: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM; Thursdays closed
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| Prag Mahal |
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| Prag Mahal: Entrance stairway |
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| Prag Mahal: Durbar hall |
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| Prag Mahal: Rani ka vaas (Queen's residence) |
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| Prag Mahal: Decorative iron jali |
Staying at Sharad Baug Homestay
With the tour complete, we returned to our homestay. Sharad Baug Homestay, managed by the royal family of the former Kutch state, offers an exquisite blend of luxury and homely comfort. The room was spacious and modestly furnished with antique pieces—I was particularly drawn to the old grandfather chair. Swings and other artefacts were put up in the lobby. During dinner, we had the opportunity to meet members of the royal family. Food was simple, delicious, and thoughtfully prepared, and the service throughout was warm and unpretentious.
Sharad Baug Palace
The next day, after breakfast, we stepped out to explore the Sharad Baug Palace, located within the same compound. Built in 1867, the palace is a graceful blend of Indian and Italian architectural styles. The main residence once housed the sitting room, living room, and bedrooms, while the dining room stood separately in an adjoining building. Sharad Baug served as the royal abode of the last Maharao of Kutch, Madansingh, until his passing in 1991. Italian influences are evident in the furniture, while the wall tapestries remain distinctly Indian in character.
The 2001 earthquake caused severe damage to the palace, especially most of the third floor; consequently, the remaining lower floors were closed to visitors. Today, the former dining hall has been repurposed into a museum displaying an eclectic royal collection. Inside, we found paintings, statuettes, handicrafts, swords, spears, fine carpets, and even furs, hides, and hunting trophies accumulated by the royal family. The most striking exhibits are the two enormous stuffed tigers shot by the Maharao, along with his coffin, both evoking a stark sense of history. Outside, the palace gardens—lush with flowering and medicinal plants—offer a quiet refuge for migratory birds, pausing briefly on their long journeys.
Timings: 9:00 AM–12:00 PM and 3:00 PM–6:00 PM. Closed on Fridays and public holidays.
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| Sharad Baug Palace |
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| Museum (Left) Maharao Madansingh ji (Centre) Sharad Baug Palace(Right) |
The visit took nearly an hour, and right on cue, our auto arrived to take us to the next set of sights—the Kutch Museum, the Swaminarayan Temple, Chhatedi, Ramkund, Dada Bhagwan temple (Tri Mandir), Vandematram Memorial, and the Earthquake Museum.
Kutch Museum
Founded in 1877 by Maharao Khengarji, the Kutch Museum is one of the oldest museums in Gujarat and offers a deep insight into the region’s cultural and historical richness. Housed in a building dating back to the late 19th century, the museum is especially known for its extensive collection of Kshatrapa inscriptions, the largest of its kind, dating back to the 1st century AD.
The ground floor focuses on archaeology related to the Indus Valley Civilisation, with sections displaying stone tablets, arms, ornaments, and other ancient artefacts. Another section highlights tribal cultures, showcasing folk art, crafts, and objects that reflect traditional ways of life. The first floor is devoted largely to Kutchi textiles and crafts, featuring exquisite embroidery, paintings, sculptures, musical instruments, arms, and an impressive coin collection—including the kori, Kachchh’s former local currency.
Timings: 10:00 AM–1:00 PM and 2:30 PM–5:30 PM. Closed on Wednesdays and public holidays.
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| Life-size display, showing different tribes and their profession |
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| Kutchi textile display |
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| Display at the Museum |
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| Display at the Museum |
Swaminarayan Temple Our next stop was the Swaminarayan temple; a place steeped in both devotion and history. Bhuj holds special significance, as it is one of the six locations where Lord Shree Swaminarayan personally built a temple. This alone speaks volumes about the spiritual depth of the land of Kutch.
The original temple was constructed in just one year, beginning in 1822. Lord Swaminarayan himself installed the idols of Narnarayan Dev on 15 May 1823, while Acharya Shree Ayodhyaprasadji Maharaj later installed the idols of Hari-Krishna Maharaj in 1867. Over time, the temple came to house multiple manifestations of the Lord beneath its domes, with Roop Chowki, the central square, featuring images of Ganapati Bapa and Hanumanji.
The devastating January 2001 Gujarat earthquake destroyed much of the original structure. Yet, remarkably, the divine idols remained completely unharmed. Reconstruction began in 2003, and after nearly seven years, a magnificent new temple rose a short distance from the original site. Spread across 35,000 square feet, the temple features seven soaring pinnacles, a central dome, 25 smaller domes, and 258 intricately carved pillars. Crafted from pristine Makrana and Ambaji marble, its luminous carvings lend the space an overwhelming sense of serenity, devotion, and timeless grace.
As we walked closer to the idols to seek blessings, we saw a board indicating "females are not allowed near the idols." This temple still follows the restriction of females near the deities.
Timings: 5:45 AM - 11:20 PM & 3:30 PM - 8:30 PM all days
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| Swami Narayan Temple |
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