Celebrating 50,000 km - The Road Through Heaven and the Call of the Rann

 

After crossing the 20,000-km milestone at Bhadra, celebrating every 10,000 km with a special drive gradually became a tradition. The 30K and 40K marks were commemorated at Pench and Mandu, respectively. The 50,000-km milestone, however, was shaping up to be something truly special—set to unfold on a journey that would take us to the White Rann and along the legendary Road through Heaven.

Having already done birding in the Little Rann of Kutch (LRK), winter birding in GRK had long been on my wish list. The timing could not have been better. The Rann Utsav usually begins towards the end of October, while winter migrants start arriving in GRK by November. Everything aligned perfectly; it felt like a clear call for a long road trip.

Our initial plan was:

Thane – Ahmedabad (night halt) – Dholavira – Dhordo – GRK Birding – Bhuj – Ahmedabad/Vadodara (night halt) – Thane.

A wedding in Indore just before the trip added another dimension. After some deliberation, we decided to include Indore in the journey itself, instead of returning to Thane and starting afresh. 

The revised itinerary then became:

Thane – Indore – Ahmedabad (night halt) – Dholavira – Dhordo – GRK Birding – Koteshwar – Bhuj – Bharuch (night halt) – Thane.

What started as a milestone drive soon evolved into a wonderfully layered journey—a family celebration, brushes with history, birding, temples, culture, art, and above all, the joy of the road.

Day 0: Preparation

With the revised itinerary, Day 0 fell on a working weekday, making preparation essential. Past experiences with last-minute chaos ensured we left nothing to chance. The Safari was serviced well in advance, leaving only final checks— tyre pressure, water, and oil—for the day before departure. The fuel tank was topped up, all bags were packed, and a few were even loaded into the car the previous night.

With just the remaining essentials to be loaded in the morning, we turned in early—an early start awaited us the next day.

Day 1: Thane – Indore | 600 kms | ~11 hrs 30 min

The day began early, and as planned, we rolled out of our Thane home at 06:00 hrs. The first 50 minutes were spent negotiating bad roads and early-morning traffic before we finally joined the Balasaheb Thackeray Samruddhi Expressway. As expected, the drive was comfortable and unhurried—but only briefly. Within an hour, we took the Igatpuri exit, continuing our onward journey on NH3.

Around 09:00, we pulled over near Atgaon for breakfast. After a relaxed break of about 30 minutes, we were back on the road.

At Chandwad, traffic slowed to a crawl and soon came to a standstill. Driving a little ahead, we realised it was a long queue. While waiting, we noticed a Tempo Traveller veering off onto a rough side road. Unsure of where it led, we chose not to follow immediately. Since traffic remained static and we were still close to the exit point, I kept an eye on that route. A few minutes later, the same vehicle appeared ahead of us, clearly back on the highway.

We stepped out to enquire with a local passerby, who confirmed that the off-road track would indeed reconnect with the highway further ahead. Taking a calculated risk, we turned onto the detour. Soon, a few more cars followed—clearly, we all shared the same thought.

However, on reaching the junction where the road was supposed to merge back, we realised the highway ahead was blocked due to a protest, and that access point too was sealed. A young local boy informed us that the blockade could last an hour or more and suggested yet another detour that would reconnect us to the highway further ahead.

Having already taken one chance, we decided to take another. The road conditions worsened, but persistence paid off—we finally rejoined the highway beyond the blockade and continued our journey, relieved and back on track.

Lunch was at a roadside dhaba (motel) after Dhule, and it brought back a pleasant sense of déjà vu—we had eaten at the very same place a year earlier during our Mandu trip. After lunch, we drove on, stopping briefly for tea at the MPTDC Midway Resort, Julwania, before finally reaching our Indore home around 18:30.

Day 2 & 3: Indore – Marriage Function

The next morning, while leaving for the venue, I noticed low air pressure in one of the Safari’s tyres. We drove cautiously to our wedding stay at Hotel Shreemaya Residency. Since we had to attend the function, I decided to have it looked at later in the day. When it was finally inspected, it turned out that air was leaking from a previously repaired puncture—the very same spot that had already been fixed twice.

For a moment, replacing the tyre seemed inevitable. However, the repairer reassured me, explaining that earlier fixes had been temporary string-plug repairs, commonly used as quick solutions. He pointed out that such plugs can damage the tyre if used repeatedly and are best reserved for emergencies. A proper patch repair, which seals the tyre from the inside, was the correct and durable solution. With that done, the concern was put to rest.

Though we stayed at Hotel Shreemaya Residency, all our meals—superbly delicious—were part of the wedding celebrations at Brilliant Convention Centre. But being a coffee lover, I couldn’t miss the hotel’s coffee shop. On the final evening, once the festivities wound down, we sat back with a perfectly brewed cup of coffee, a quiet pause before the road called us again.

Coffee Shop at Hotel Shreemaya Residency

Day 4: Indore – Ahmedabad | 406 km | ~6 hrs 40 min

We planned to start around 08:00, after the breakfast. Being early risers, it gave us a comfortable window to visit the famous Shri Ganpati Mandir at Khajrana. The temple, built by Rani Ahilyabai Holkar, holds deep significance for devotees, with a local belief that prayers offered here are always fulfilled.

We spent a peaceful time at the temple, and with hardly any crowd, we also had the opportunity to offer water to the Shivling, located beside the Ganesh temple within the same premises. The quiet morning added to the sanctity of the visit.

Shri Ganpati Mandir, Khajrana

After breakfast—classic Indori Poha—at Hotel Shreemaya, we finally hit the road at around 8:20 a.m. The initial stretch of the Indore–Dhar road was rough, but conditions improved once we merged onto NH47.

A quick tea break followed at Midway Treat, Dattigaon (Madhya Pradesh) around 10:40, and we stopped for lunch at Vadadala, Gujarat, at approximately 13:30. By evening, we reached Hotel The Town, located on SP Ring Road, Ahmedabad. Being on the outskirts, it proved to be a convenient choice for an overnight halt. Our son was to join us here for the onward journey.

Overall, road conditions were a mix of good and bad stretches across both states, especially until Lasundra, Gujarat, after which the drive became more relaxed.

Day 5: Ahmedabad – Dholavira | 339 km | ~6 hrs 40 min

Our son arrived early in the morning at around 03:35. After catching a few quick winks, we set off from the hotel at around 08:10. A little over an hour later, we pulled over for breakfast at Hotel Kalpi, Rajpur (Gujarat).

With the fuel tank topped up at an Indian Oil outlet, we continued the drive, passing through Mehsana, Chanasma, Harij, Varana, and reaching Radhanpur on NH68. From there, we joined NH27, heading towards Santalpur via Varahi.

Beyond Santalpur, the landscape began to change almost imperceptibly. The greens thinned, settlements grew farther apart, and the horizon stretched wider with every kilometre. Taking NH754K towards Madutra and then onward till Balsar, the land slowly took on a muted palette—dusty browns, pale yellows, and an ever-expanding sky that hinted at the vastness ahead. From here, we turned onto NH927C towards Lodrani, where the first real sense of the Rann made itself felt—open flats, sparse vegetation, and long, empty roads that invited silence.

At approximately 15:20, we arrived at Ram-Rann Resort, Dholavira, where we were greeted by a stillness unique to this landscape. The journey had quietly transitioned us from highways and towns into the stark openness of the Rann—setting the tone for the days to come. 

While crossing the stretch skirting the lake, we were greeted by large flocks of flamingos and a few other shorebirds, offering our first gentle hint of the birdlife that awaited us ahead.

In the evening, we visited the Harappan civilisation site at Dholavira. Situated on the arid Khadir Bet (island) in Kutch, Dholavira is one of the five largest Harappan sites and among the most significant archaeological locations in India associated with the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Spread across nearly 100 hectares, this quadrangular city lies between two seasonal streams—the Mansar to the north and the Manhar to the south. Archaeological excavations reveal that this nearly 4,500-year-old civilisation passed through seven distinct stages, from early development and peak urban maturity to gradual decline. After reaching its zenith, Dholavira was temporarily abandoned. It is believed that settlers later returned, bringing with them a simplified, de-urbanised way of life. Their homes took on a circular form (bhungas), and their pottery styles evolved accordingly.

The ruins stand as a powerful testament to the ingenuity of the Harappan people, particularly in:

• Water management: the masterful construction of large reservoirs designed to harvest and store rainwater

• Urban planning: a unique three-part city layout comprising the Citadel, Middle Town, and Lower Town, distinct from other Harappan settlements

• Early communication: what is believed to be one of the world’s earliest signboards, bearing ten symbols in the ancient Indus script

Harappan excavation

Harappan ruins

Harappan Water resorvior

As the light softened over the plains, we returned to Ram-Rann Resort, a beautifully designed property offering traditional bhungas of varying sizes along with a family cottage, perfectly in tune with the surrounding landscape. Food here was simple yet delicious. 

Ram-Rann Resort

Day 6: Dholavira – Dhordo (via Road through Heaven, Kalo Dungar) | 124 km | ~3 hrs 45 min
Today’s drive was short in distance but promised to be unlike any other—the much-celebrated Road to Heaven; while commonly known by that name, we prefer calling it the “Road through Heaven” for the surreal experience it offered us.

Entering Road through Heaven

We started from the resort at 09:05, and within just 4 km, we found ourselves entering this extraordinary stretch. The 28-km-long, almost perfectly straight road cuts through a vast salt lake. On both sides lay an endless expanse of water, creating a striking visual where the road seemed to dissolve into the sky, stretching towards infinity. The illusion was mesmerising. Indeed, a “Road through Heaven”.

Safari at "Road through Heaven" (PC: Eshaan)

Thanks to the extended monsoon rains, which lasted until the first week of November, water still lingered on either side of the road. Under normal conditions, this would have been a blinding white salt desert, but the presence of water lent the landscape a different, equally captivating character.

Stopping to step out and take photographs required some caution. The area was teeming with tiny insects that quickly made their way inside the vehicle whenever a door was opened. At subsequent stops, we were careful to minimise their entry—but despite this small challenge, the experience remained unforgettable.

Continuing on NH754K, we reached Khavda, from where we took a detour towards Kalo Dungar (Black Hill). The main attractions here are the Dattatreya Temple and the famed Magnetic Hill. At 462 metres, Kalo Dungar, located close to the India–Pakistan border, is the highest point in Kutch.

Dattatreya Temple

On the way to the temple, we passed through the Magnetic Hill, where vehicles appear to roll uphill, seemingly defying gravity—an intriguing optical illusion that continues to fascinate visitors.

At the summit, haze limited the panoramic views we had hoped for. Instead of walking further to the highest viewpoint overlooking the salt desert, we chose to spend time at the Dattatreya Temple, which is believed to be around 400 years old. According to legend, Lord Dattatreya once rested here and encountered a group of starving jackals. Offering them his body, he miraculously regenerated as they were fed. In memory of this act, priests have, for centuries, prepared cooked rice for jackals that arrive in the late evenings for their meal—a tradition that continues to this day.

After spending some quiet moments at the temple, we retraced our route, once again experiencing the magnetic illusion, and continued on NH341, up to Khavda. Taking an exit near Brindariya, we headed towards Hudko and arrived at Mahefeel-e-Rann Resort at around 12:45. After freshening up, we had a simple yet delicious lunch.

Later in the afternoon, we visited a local craftsman, getting a glimpse into the region’s traditional artistry and handmade techniques. From there, we drove to the Rann Utsav grounds at Dhordo. Since we had booked our tickets online, entry was smooth—we parked the car and boarded a shuttle bus that took us to the viewing area.

Due to the extended monsoon, the festival had been delayed and had begun only a few days before our arrival instead of its usual October start. Preparations were still underway, and while the salt flats had not yet transformed into the dazzling white we had imagined, the experience felt no less special. Many visitors, including us, who had planned the trip well in advance, were slightly disappointed to find the Rann still wet and not fully white. Yet, the relatively lighter crowds brought a welcome sense of ease to the visit. After spending unhurried moments soaking in the festival atmosphere and attending the cultural performances, we made our way back to the resort.

Here too our stay was in a traditional bhunga—a circular mud house with a thatched roof, characteristic of this region. Bhungas are renowned for their earthquake resistance and climate-responsive design. The exteriors are adorned with colourful artwork, while the interiors feature intricate mud and mirror art, creating a warm, inviting space that feels deeply rooted in local tradition.

Bhunga

Mud and Mirror work

Day 7: Dhordo – Nirona – CEDO | 90 km | ~2 hrs 20 min
The day began with a delicious local breakfast—theplas with curd and bijora pickle. Bijora (citron), a thick-skinned citrus fruit, is blended with jaggery, chilli powder, and spices such as fenugreek and mustard to create this popular sweet-and-spicy Gujarati pickle. It was the perfect start to a day steeped in local flavour and culture.

Post breakfast, we set off from the resort at around 08:30. With several stops planned, all thoughtfully recommended by our guide before we reached CEDO Homestay, the day promised a slow and immersive exploration of the region.

Our first stop was Malhar Mawa Centre at Bhirandiyara, where we tasted freshly prepared mawa, a local speciality known for its rich flavour and texture. Naturally, we packed some to enjoy later as well.

Fresh mawa garnished with rose petals

Next came a geographical landmark—the Tropic of Cancer (23.5° N latitude). Keeping a close eye on the map, we were glad to have the exact GPS coordinates, as the location is marked only by a simple board and is easy to miss. In my view, such a significant point deserves better signage and a touch of thoughtful beautification.

Tropic of Cancer (PC: Eshaan)

From geography, we moved into the realm of traditional art and craftsmanship at Nirona village. This quaint settlement in the Kutch district is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and age-old crafts. Here, we experienced the intricate beauty of Rogan painting, the rhythmic artistry of copper bell-making, and, finally, the vibrant lacquer work on wood—each craft reflecting generations of skill, patience, preservation, and storytelling.

Rogan Painting

Kutchi Copper bells

Lacquer work on wood

After a wonderful experience with the local artisans and with a few carefully chosen mementoes in hand, we set off towards our next destination, travelling via Bibar, Bhimsar, and Devisar. We reached CEDO Homestay, Moti Virani, in Nakhatrana taluka of Kutch, at around 12:45 pm.

Day 7(Post Lunch) – Day 10(Pre-Lunch): Birding at GRK

At CEDO, we were warmly welcomed by the owner, Mr Jugal Tiwari. The Centre for Desert & Ocean (CEDO) is an eco-friendly homestay and the brainchild of Mr Tiwari, a passionate environmentalist, and his son, Shivam. Established in 2005, CEDO was envisioned as a platform to propagate and preserve native plant species, while strengthening the natural green cover of Kutch and other arid landscapes of Gujarat.

Beyond being a place to stay, CEDO offers nature travellers an opportunity to understand and engage with Kutch’s unique ecosystem. With an experienced and knowledgeable team, they also provide some of the best guidance for exploring the wildlife of the Great Rann of Kutch.

These three days were devoted entirely to exploring the wildlife of the Great Rann of Kutch (GRK). Our journeys took us through diverse habitats, including the Chhari-Dhand Wetland Conservation Reserve, the vast Banni Grasslands, and stretches of tropical scrubland—each offering a distinct character and rhythm of life.

Chhari-Dhand Wetland Conservation Reserve is a vital shallow wetland ecosystem located on the fringes of the Banni grasslands and the Rann of Kutch. In the Kutchi language, “Chhari” means salty, while “Dhand” refers to shallow wetlands. True to its name, this rich and dynamic landscape supports remarkable biodiversity, making it an ideal refuge for resident species and an important stopover for winter migratory birds. Species such as Dalmatian Pelican, Oriental Darter, Black-necked Stork, Common Crane, Painted Stork, Spoonbill, and various raptors thrive here, alongside mammals like wolves, jackals, desert foxes, desert cats, and the elusive caracal. Beyond wildlife, the reserve offers striking open vistas and a uniquely layered landscape that feels both harsh and fragile. Among the many birds we saw, we were delighted to add several lifers to our list—Sykes’s Nightjar, Hypocolius, White-tailed Iora, Tawny Lark, Isabelline Wheatear, White-naped Tit, and the Long-legged Buzzard. Among the mammals we encountered were the desert fox, jackal, Indian wolf, nilgai (blue bull), and desert gerbil.

One of our excursions took us to the reaches of the Banni Grasslands. Here, we were rewarded with sightings of two MacQueen’s Bustards (Asian Houbara), along with a desert fox. We found ourselves almost at the edge of the Rann, where stretches of white sand finally revealed the classic Rann landscape we had missed earlier in the trip, reminding us how these habitats shift and transform with time and weather.

White sand at the Eastern Banni

On our final day, while returning from an early morning safari, we caught a fleeting glimpse of a jungle cat. The encounter lasted only a few seconds, too brief for a photograph, but long enough to admire the grace and beauty of the animal before it vanished into the scrub.

One evening after a safari, we visited the prehistoric rock formations along the Laiyari riverbed—often likened to a miniature Grand Canyon. Located about 70 km from Bhuj, behind the Dhinodhar Hills, this dramatic landscape felt worlds apart from the surrounding desert. Sculpted over millennia by wind and water, the rocks stand as ancient natural artworks. As the sun moved across the riverbed, it bathed the formations in hues of ochre, sienna, and burnt orange. The shifting light and shadows created an ever-changing canvas, so captivating that I could have spent the entire day simply observing the patterns etched into the stone.

Laiyari riverbed

Laiyari riverbed

Laiyari riverbed (PC: Pratahm)

Day 10(Post lunch): CEDO – Narayan Sarovar | 115 km | ~2 hrs
Alongside the rewarding birding and the unique landscapes, we also cherished the simple pleasure of the home-cooked meals and warm hospitality at CEDO. After our morning safari, we returned to a delicious, freshly prepared lunch and, by around 15:00, set off once again—this time towards Narayan Sarovar.

After a drive through the arid landscapes of Kutch, we eventually reached the western tip of India, where the vast dryness of the land meets the incomprehensible expanse of the Arabian Sea. The scenery here feels dramatically different, with land surrounded by water on three sides, creating a sense of isolation and quiet grandeur.

From Moti Virani in Nakhatrana taluka, we took a detour to explore Koteshwar, Narayan Sarovar, Lakhpat Fort, and Mata No Madh, before continuing onward to Bhuj.

We travelled via GJ SH42 to Dayapar, followed by the Subhashpar-Pandhro-Fulra highway for about 37 km and then GJ SH6 to Narayan Sarovar. We crossed Mata No Madh on the way, but we chose to forego it because we had to get to Koteshwar in time for the sunset. 

A quick check-in at the resort, and we drove to the Koteshwar Lighthouse, a 60-meter-high radar tower built to house the radar and Vessel Traffic Service (VTS) equipment.

Koteshwar Light House

Led by a local wood collector, we visited Shri Chapleshwar Mahadev, situated nearby. We proceeded to the Koteshwar Temple after a brief stroll.

Koteshwar Mahadev Temple once stood as an island, separated from the mainland by a tidal creek. Believed to have originated in the 13th century, the temple has been rebuilt several times. Its weathered stones stand as a testament to an enduring faith that has returned again and again, despite time and tide.

Koteshwar Mahadev Temple

Simple yet evocative in form, the temple’s three domes rise above a space shaped by devotion. Inside, shrines to Ganapati, Hanuman, and a gleaming brass Nandi share the sanctum with a small Hinglaj Mata shrine, making Koteshwar a layered and shared sacred space at the edge of the land.

According to legend, the Atma Linga dropped here by Ravana multiplied into many forms, leaving the original enshrined at Koteshwar. 

Known for its sunsets and, on clear nights, distant lights from Karachi, the temple revealed a quieter charm during the evening aarti. We returned to the resort with plans to revisit at dawn.

Day 11: Narayan Sarovar – Bhuj | 182 km | ~3 hrs 30min

Early the next morning, Koteshwar Mahadev Temple was wrapped in silence. A cool sea breeze drifted in as we offered water to the Shivalinga, making Mokshada Ekadashi feel especially sacred. From there, we walked to the westernmost tip of India—a narrow stretch of land embraced by the sea on three sides. The vast, open horizon was humbling, and we lingered for a while before continuing toward Narayan Sarovar.

Narayan Sarovar, one of the five sacred lakes, is believed to have been connected to the mythical Saraswati River. The temple complex, known as the Trikamray Temples, houses seven shrines, including Shri Trikamray Ji, Lakshmi Narayan, Govardhan Nath, Adinarayan, and Dwarkanath. Time has weathered the carvings and interiors, quietly reminding visitors of the need to preserve their sanctity. We spent some time by the tranquil lake, letting the calm sink in before setting off again.

Narayan Sarovar Temple complex

Narayan Sarovar lake

Post breakfast we started at 10:00. Following GJ SH-6, we reached Lakhpat Fort, a walled town built in 1801 near Kori Creek. The fort’s ramparts, still standing after centuries, offered sweeping views of the Rann of Kutch. Within the walls, layers of faith endure in the Gurudwara, mosque, temples, and mausoleum, hinting at Lakhpat’s prosperous trading past.

Safari with Lakhpat Fort in backdrop

After spending unhurried moments within the fort, we resumed our journey towards Bhuj, taking NH-754K up to Gaduli before turning onto GJ SH-42. Having skipped it earlier, we made a stop at Mata No Madh on our return.

Mata No Madh is dedicated to Goddess Ashapura Mata. The shrine, rebuilt after multiple earthquakes, stands as a testament to enduring devotion. Visiting outside the festival season, we enjoyed a quiet darshan before continuing our journey.

Mata No Madh

Driving along GJ SH-42 towards Bhuj, we crossed small towns. About 19 kilometres west of Bhuj, the Samatra TV Tower rose unexpectedly from the plains near Samatra village. Built in 1999 and standing 300 metres tall, it is the eighth-tallest structure in India. Against the otherwise low skyline, the tower felt like a modern landmark anchoring the region to the present.

Samara TV Tower

We reached Sharad Baug Homestay at 14:45 PM. After a quick check-in and brief pause, we stepped out to visit Aaina Mahal and Prag Mahal, located side by side within the royal complex. To avoid traffic and parking hassles, we opted for an auto—an easy decision that saved both time and energy.

Built in 1761 by Rao Lakhpatji and designed by Ram Singh Malam, Aaina Mahal—the Hall of Mirrors—beautifully blends Indian craftsmanship with European flair. Marble walls inlaid with mirrors, Venetian chandeliers, and a fountain-lined platform create theatrical elegance. Damaged in the 2001 earthquake, it now functions as a museum showcasing royal artefacts from Kutch’s artistic past.

Aaina Mahal

In contrast, Prag Mahal rises in a restrained Italian Gothic style. Built in the 19th century by Rao Pragmalji II, its sandstone arches, carved balconies, and imposing Darbar Hall reflect strong European influence. Restoration continues, though sections like Rani ka Vas remain in poignant ruin.

Prag Mahal

With the tour complete, we returned to our homestay. Sharad Baug Homestay, managed by the royal family of the former Kutch state, offers an exquisite blend of luxury and homely comfort. The room was spacious and modestly furnished with antique pieces. Swings and other artefacts were put up in the lobby. During dinner, we had the opportunity to meet members of the royal family. Food was simple, delicious, and thoughtfully prepared, and the service throughout was warm and unpretentious.

Day 12: Bhuj city tour | local conveyance

The next morning, we explored Sharad Baug Palace, now partly a museum displaying royal memorabilia and hunting trophies—quiet echoes of a bygone era.

Sharad Baug Palace

The visit took nearly an hour, and right on cue, our auto arrived to take us to the next set of sights—the Kutch Museum, the Swaminarayan Temple, Chhatedi, Ramkund, Dada Bhagwan temple (Tri Mandir), Vandematram Memorial, and the Earthquake Museum.

Founded in 1877 by Maharao Khengarji, the Kutch Museum is one of Gujarat’s oldest museums. Its collection includes Kshatrapa inscriptions, Indus Valley artefacts, tribal crafts, textiles, and historic coins, offering deep insight into the region’s layered history.

The Swaminarayan Temple Bhuj holds immense spiritual significance as one of the six temples personally built by Lord Swaminarayan. Though destroyed in the 2001 earthquake, the idols remained unharmed, and the reconstructed marble temple today stands as a symbol of faith and resilience.

We also visited Ramkund Stepwell, an 18th-century stepwell adorned with Ramayana carvings, and Chhatedi Bhuj, a hauntingly beautiful royal cremation site marked by umbrella-shaped chhatris—damaged, yet dignified.

Ramkund Stepwell

Chhatedi

After a brief stop at Vande Mataram Memorial and the craft market at Hiralaxmi Craft Park, our final destination was the Smritivan Earthquake Memorial and Museum, built atop Bhujiyo Hill.

Vande Mataram Memorial: Parliament replica

Smritivan Museum

Dedicated to the victims of the 2001 Gujarat earthquake, the 470-acre memorial park houses over 500,000 trees. The museum unfolds across seven thematic blocks—Rebirth, Rediscover, Restore, Rebuild, Rethink, Relive, and Renew—offering an immersive journey through devastation, recovery, and renewal. From understanding geological evolution to experiencing the tremors in the 5D simulator, the visit was both sobering and inspiring. The Renew gallery, where visitors light a digital flame in remembrance, was especially moving.

As dusk settled, we realised Bhuj cannot be experienced in haste. We missed Hamirsar Lake and Bhujiyo Hill—good reasons to return. Even in two days, however, the city revealed its enduring spirit of history, heritage, and resilience.

We returned to our homestay, met friends we had made over there, and spent a long, memorable evening over dinner—bringing our Bhuj experience to a perfect close.

Day 13: Bhuj – Bharuch | 542 km | ~8 hrs 30min

We began early from Bhuj, loading up at the Sharad Baug Palace. Just as I started the engine, the TPMS beeped—low tyre pressure. A quick inflation cost us about 30 minutes, and we finally rolled out around 07:15 hrs.

By 08:45, we paused for a refuel—both for ourselves and the Safari. About 80 km before Ahmedabad, traffic thickened into a jam, forcing a detour via Sanand and Viramgam. We eventually navigated past the crowded city and reached Sarkhej around 13:35, where a traffic policeman briefly stopped us near the Ahmedabad Vadodara Expressway(NE1). After a few routine questions, he waved us through. NE1 is a tarred road, though narrow and dense traffic, drive was smooth.

A 45-minute break at Jagdish Food Court near the Vadodara exit refreshed us, and by 15:30, we were back on the highway NE4, covering the final stretch toward Bharuch. We checked into Ginger Hotel Bharuch around 17:00.

In the evening, we wandered through streets of Bharuch, picked up some famous Bharuchi khari sing (salty roasted groundnuts), enjoyed a hearty Gujarati thali, and called it an early night.

Day 14: Bharuch – Thane | 334 km | ~6 hrs

Anticipating traffic snarls between Vasai and Thane, we kept the final leg shorter. We started at 06:45, aiming to be home by lunch.

After navigating the early morning city congestion, we merged on to NH48. As we crossed the Golden bridge over the Narmada, memories of 1993 floods came rushing back - the river had then been swollen fiercely, its water flowing just a few feet below the bridge. 

Soon the google map diverted us onto NE4 up to the Surat exit, from here we continued along NH53 and rejoined NH48. The drive unfolded smoothly, almost as timed to perfection and skipping traffic we were back home by 13:15 - right on the schedule.

Journey’s End

Over 14 days, we covered approximately 2,805 km in about 56 hours of driving. During the trip, the Safari quietly crossed the 50,000 km milestone. The roads varied—from rough rural stretches to smooth expressways—but the drive remained steady, safe, and fatigue-free. Apart from one flat tyre and a low-pressure alert, there were no mechanical concerns. The overall fuel efficiency stood at 16.5 km/l.

As I was unloading the bags, I noticed a thick layer of dust coating the Safari. But more than dust, it carried the imprint of the miles we had travelled across Kutch—memories layered deep.

It brought to mind the familiar line: “Kutch Nahi Dekha, To Kuch Nahi Dekha.” (If you haven't seen Kutch, you haven't seen anything).

Overall Route map

Kutch Route

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